Electricity Cost Calculator

Estimate the running cost of any appliance — pick a typical appliance or enter its wattage, set how long it runs, and get daily, monthly and yearly cost. Free, instant, no signup.

W
% capacity
hours/day
per kWh
Formula: Cost/day = (watts × capacity% ÷ 1000) × hours/day × price per kWh

How to use the Electricity Cost Calculator

  1. Enter your values. Fill in the fields with your numbers.
  2. Calculate. Press Calculate to run the electricity cost calculator.
  3. Use the result. Copy the result or try a related tool next.

Why use our Electricity Cost Calculator

Instant results. Enter your figures and the electricity cost calculator returns an answer in seconds.
Free & private. Runs in your browser — no signup, and nothing is sent to a server.
Accurate. Uses standard formulas so you can rely on the numbers.

Free to use — premium coming soon

FREE
  • Unlimited calculations
  • Instant results
  • No signup
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About the Electricity Cost Calculator

The Electricity Cost Calculator turns an appliance's power rating and how long you run it into a real money figure: cost per hour, day, month, and year. You enter three things you can find without an engineering degree: the device's wattage, the hours it runs, and the price your utility charges per kilowatt-hour (kWh). It then does the unit-juggling that trips most people up, converting watts to kilowatts and multiplying out the time and rate so you don't have to keep dividing by 1,000 in your head. It works for anything that plugs in, from a 5W phone charger to a 3,000W electric water heater.

Reach for this tool when you're trying to pin down where your bill actually goes. Common moments: deciding whether an old fridge or that space heater is worth keeping, sizing the savings before buying an energy-efficient replacement, settling a household argument over the cost of leaving lights or the AC on, or estimating the running cost of a new gaming PC, grow light, aquarium pump, or EV charger. It's equally useful for landlords splitting bills, small workshops costing out machinery, and anyone on a time-of-use plan checking what a high-draw appliance adds per session.

The math is the standard utility-billing formula: kilowatt-hours equal power (in kW) times hours, and cost equals kWh times your rate. So a 1,500W space heater run 8 hours a day at $0.17/kWh uses 12 kWh daily and costs about $2.04 a day, roughly $61 a month. If you only know amps and volts from the nameplate, multiply them (Watts = Volts x Amps) to get wattage first. Most US outlets supply 120 volts; large appliances like dryers and ranges use 240 volts.

Accuracy depends on your inputs, not the arithmetic. A device's listed wattage is its maximum draw, so motors, fridges, and anything that cycles on and off will use less on average than a flat-out estimate suggests, while standby or phantom loads mean many electronics keep sipping power even when 'off.' For the truest rate, copy the price per kWh straight off your bill, and add any per-kWh delivery or supply charges. Everything is computed locally in your browser, so your usage figures and bill details are never uploaded or stored anywhere.

Frequently asked questions

What electricity rate should I enter?

Use the price per kWh printed on your most recent utility bill, since rates vary widely by location. As a rough US reference, the residential average is around 17 cents per kWh, but real prices range from about 12 cents in some states to over 40 cents in Hawaii.

How do I find an appliance's wattage if it isn't labeled?

Check the nameplate, sticker, or manual first. If only amps and volts are listed, multiply them: Watts = Volts x Amps. A device drawing 5 amps on a 120-volt outlet uses 600 watts.

Why is my real bill higher than the calculator's estimate?

The calculator uses the appliance's rated (maximum) wattage and the hours you enter, but bills also include standby/phantom loads, appliances that cycle on and off, and per-kWh delivery, supply, and tax charges that may not be in your headline rate.

Does the calculator work for 240-volt appliances like dryers and ovens?

Yes. Just enter the total wattage of the appliance; the voltage doesn't need to be entered separately. If you only have amps, multiply by 240 (instead of 120) to get the wattage for those larger appliances.

How can I lower the cost a high-wattage device adds?

Run it for fewer hours, switch to a more efficient model, or shift use to off-peak times if you're on a time-of-use plan. For electronics that draw standby power, unplugging them or using a switchable power strip eliminates phantom load.

From our blog

How to Use a Car Loan Calculator to Avoid Overpaying at the Dealership

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

Most car shoppers negotiate the monthly payment instead of the price, and that is exactly where deals go sideways. A salesperson can hit almost any target payment by adjusting the loan term, so a payment that feels comfortable might hide a longer loan and thousands in extra interest. A car loan calculator flips the conversation back to facts: you decide the price, rate, and term, and you see precisely what that combination costs each month and in total before anyone quotes you a number.

Start by figuring out the real amount you need to finance. Take the out-the-door price, add any taxes and fees you intend to roll into the loan, then subtract your down payment and the trade-in value of your current car. That net figure is the loan amount. If you still owe money on the car you are trading in, subtract only what it is worth after your payoff, since any negative equity gets added to the new loan and quietly increases everything.

Next, enter a realistic interest rate. If you have a pre-approval, use its APR, since that includes lender fees and is the truest measure of cost. If you are still shopping, plug in a rate that matches your credit tier and the term you want; rates typically climb as the term lengthens. Then set the term in months, and the calculator applies the amortization formula to return your monthly payment alongside the total interest you will pay over the life of the loan.

The real value comes from running the numbers more than once. Compare the same loan at 48, 60, and 72 months and watch the monthly payment shrink while the total interest grows. Try a larger down payment and see how much interest disappears because you are borrowing less. Comparing scenarios side by side turns an abstract rate into concrete dollars and makes it obvious when a lower payment is actually the more expensive choice over time.

Use the output as your negotiating anchor, not a guarantee. Because the calculator assumes a fixed rate and equal payments, it will not perfectly match a quote that bakes in extra fees or a different approved APR. Treat its payment and total-cost figures as the benchmark a fair offer should land near. If a dealer's payment is higher for the same price, rate, and term, ask what is padding it, whether that is a stretched term, rolled-in add-ons, or a worse rate than you qualify for.

  • Finance the amount left after your down payment and trade-in, not the sticker price, so the payment reflects what you will truly owe.
  • Compare the exact same loan across 48, 60, and 72 months to see how much extra interest a longer term costs before you commit.
  • Always model with APR rather than the bare interest rate so lender fees are baked into your comparison.
  • If your trade-in is worth less than you still owe, add that negative equity to the loan amount, because it carries straight into the new payment.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

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