Sales Tax Calculator

Add sales tax to a price or extract the tax from a total at any rate. Free, instant, no signup.

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Formula: Tax = net × rate ÷ 100 · Total = net + tax

How to use the Sales Tax Calculator

  1. Enter your values. Fill in the fields with your numbers.
  2. Calculate. Press Calculate to run the sales tax calculator.
  3. Use the result. Copy the result or try a related tool next.

Why use our Sales Tax Calculator

Instant results. Enter your figures and the sales tax calculator returns an answer in seconds.
Free & private. Runs in your browser — no signup, and nothing is sent to a server.
Accurate. Uses standard formulas so you can rely on the numbers.

Free to use — premium coming soon

FREE
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  • Instant results
  • No signup
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About the Sales Tax Calculator

The Sales Tax Calculator works in both directions: it adds sales tax to a pre-tax (net) price to find the total a customer pays, and it extracts the tax already baked into a tax-inclusive (gross) price. Enter an amount, type in your combined rate, and choose whether that amount is before or after tax. This matters in the United States because there is no single national sales tax. Rates are stacked from state, county, city, and special-district levies, so the number you key in is usually a combined rate for one specific location, not a flat country-wide figure.

Reach for this tool whenever a posted price and a receipt total do not match, or when you need to separate tax from a lump sum. Shoppers use it to estimate the real cost of a purchase before reaching the register, since most US stores show shelf prices tax-exclusive and add tax at checkout. Freelancers and small sellers use the reverse mode to back out the tax portion from an all-in price for bookkeeping. It is also handy for budgeting big buys, comparing the bottom-line cost across two locations, or checking that a quote was calculated correctly.

The math is simple arithmetic. To add tax: tax = price x (rate / 100), and total = price + tax. To extract tax from a tax-inclusive amount, divide rather than multiply: net = total / (1 + rate / 100), then tax = total - net. For example, a $108 total at an 8% rate breaks down to 108 / 1.08 = $100 net and $8 tax. The reverse step uses division on purpose, because applying 8% to the $108 gross would overstate the tax. The calculator handles both forms so you never have to remember which operation to use.

Accuracy depends entirely on the rate you supply: feed it the correct combined rate for the exact city or ZIP and the result is exact to the cent. Because local rates change and vary block by block, treat the output as a precise calculation of the numbers you entered, not as official tax advice or a live rate lookup. Confirm the current rate with your state's department of revenue for filings. The calculator runs entirely in your browser, so the prices and rates you type are never uploaded, stored, or shared.

Frequently asked questions

How do I calculate sales tax on a price?

Multiply the pre-tax price by the tax rate written as a decimal, then add it back. For a $50 item at 8%, the tax is 50 x 0.08 = $4, so the total is $54. Enter the price and rate above and the calculator does this instantly.

How do I work out the price before tax from a total?

Divide the total by 1 plus the rate as a decimal. A $107 total that includes 7% tax breaks down to 107 / 1.07 = $100 before tax, leaving $7 of tax. Set the calculator to reverse (tax-inclusive) mode to do this automatically.

What sales tax rate should I enter?

Use the combined rate for the purchase location, which adds the state rate to any county, city, and district taxes. US combined rates range from 0% in states like Oregon and Delaware to over 10% in places such as Chicago and Louisiana, so the right number depends on where the sale happens.

Which US states have no sales tax?

Five states levy no statewide sales tax: Alaska, Delaware, Montana, New Hampshire, and Oregon. Alaska is the exception that still lets local towns charge their own rate, so a purchase there may not be fully tax-free.

Why doesn't my receipt match this calculator?

Small gaps usually come from the rate. Stores apply the precise combined rate for their exact location, some items are tax-exempt or taxed at a special rate, and rounding can shift a total by a cent. Enter the exact combined rate from your receipt to match it.

From our blog

How to Estimate Your One Rep Max Without Ever Maxing Out

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

Testing a true one rep max means loading a bar with the most weight you can move exactly once. It is the gold standard for measuring strength, but it is also where most gym injuries during heavy lifting happen, and it requires a spotter, a warm-up ramp, and steady nerves. For the vast majority of lifters, a single bad rep at the limit is not worth the data. That is precisely the gap an estimated 1RM fills: it gives you the planning number without the maximal risk.

The method is simple. Pick a weight you can lift somewhere between two and ten times, perform that set to a hard but technically clean stop, and record the weight and the rep count. The calculator then runs your numbers through equations like Epley and Brzycki. Both were derived from real lifting data and describe how strength falls off as reps climb. Crucially, they agree at ten reps and only diverge a little elsewhere, which is why estimates from this rep band are trustworthy.

Why does the rep range matter so much? Strength and endurance are different qualities. A set of three is almost entirely a test of force production, so the math tracks closely to a true single. A set of twenty is mostly a test of how long your muscles can keep firing, which has little to do with peak strength. That is why every reputable 1RM tool warns you to keep test sets under roughly ten to twelve reps. Beyond that the formulas overestimate, sometimes badly.

Once you have your estimate, it becomes the backbone of your programming. Strength programs are written in percentages for a reason: a prescription like five sets of three at 85 percent only makes sense if you know what 100 percent is. Plug your number in and you can map an entire training week, from light technique work at 60 percent to top sets at 90 percent. Re-estimate every three to six weeks and you get an honest, low-risk progress chart over time.

Treat the figure as a living estimate rather than a trophy. The same lifter can post different numbers on different days depending on sleep, food, and stress, and the calculator cannot see any of that. Use it to make smart load decisions, lean on a spotter and conservative jumps if you ever do verify a real max, and let consistency, not a single heroic lift, drive your strength forward.

  • Test with the exact exercise you care about; a bench press estimate does not transfer to your squat or deadlift max.
  • Stop the test set when form starts to break, not when you physically cannot move the bar, to keep the rep count honest.
  • For programming, round calculated working weights down to the nearest plate you actually own rather than chasing exact percentages.
  • Re-run the calculator every few weeks with a fresh set instead of trusting an estimate that is months old.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

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