Investment Calculator

Project the future value of an investment with an initial amount, regular monthly contributions, and compound growth. Free, instant, no signup.

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years
Formula: FV = P(1+r)^n + C×((1+r)^n − 1)/r
  • P = initial investment
  • C = monthly contribution
  • r = monthly interest rate
  • n = total months

How to use the Investment Calculator

  1. Enter your values. Fill in the fields with your numbers.
  2. Calculate. Press Calculate to run the investment calculator.
  3. Use the result. Copy the result or try a related tool next.

Why use our Investment Calculator

Instant results. Enter your figures and the investment calculator returns an answer in seconds.
Free & private. Runs in your browser — no signup, and nothing is sent to a server.
Accurate. Uses standard formulas so you can rely on the numbers.

Free to use — premium coming soon

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About the Investment Calculator

The Investment Calculator projects how much a lump sum and ongoing deposits could grow over time once compound interest is applied. You enter a starting amount, an expected annual return rate, how often interest compounds, the length of the investment, and any recurring contribution. The tool then calculates the future value and separates it into three parts: the money you put in (principal plus deposits) and the interest those amounts earned. It is built for planning, not promising. Markets fluctuate year to year, so treat every figure as a smoothed estimate based on a constant return rather than a guaranteed outcome.

Reach for this calculator whenever you want to test a savings or investing idea before committing money. Common uses include estimating a retirement balance, sizing the monthly deposit needed to hit a house-deposit goal, comparing a one-off investment against drip-feeding the same cash over years, or seeing how an extra one or two percent of return changes the final number. Because you can vary a single input at a time, it is also a quick way to settle 'what if' debates: what if I start five years earlier, what if I add fifty more per month, what if returns are 5 percent instead of 8.

Under the hood the tool combines two standard finance formulas. A starting lump sum grows by FV = PV x (1 + r)^n, where r is the periodic rate and n is the number of periods. Recurring deposits use the future value of an annuity, FV = PMT x [((1 + r)^n - 1) / r]. The annual rate is divided by the compounding frequency to get r, and the years are multiplied by it to get n. Contributions made at the start of each period earn one extra period of growth versus end-of-period deposits, which is why the timing option noticeably shifts long-run totals.

Everything is calculated in your browser, so the amounts, rates, and goals you type are never uploaded, stored, or shared. The accuracy of the result depends entirely on your assumptions: a constant return, no skipped contributions, and no allowance for tax, platform fees, or inflation unless you bake those into the rate yourself. For a realistic view, run a conservative scenario alongside an optimistic one, and remember that historical averages, such as the roughly 9 to 10 percent long-run average of the S&P 500 before inflation, are not a forecast of any single year.

Frequently asked questions

What return rate should I enter?

Use a rate that matches the assets you hold. Diversified stock portfolios have historically averaged around 9 to 10 percent before inflation, balanced portfolios 6 to 7 percent, and bonds closer to 4 to 5 percent. For honest planning, subtract inflation and fees, or run both a cautious and an optimistic figure to see the range.

Does it matter if contributions are at the beginning or end of the period?

Yes. A deposit made at the start of each period earns one extra period of compounding compared with one made at the end. Over many years this 'annuity due' timing produces a meaningfully higher ending balance, especially at higher rates.

How does compounding frequency change the result?

The more often interest is added back, the sooner that interest starts earning its own interest. Monthly or daily compounding gives a slightly higher total than annual compounding at the same stated rate, though the difference is small compared with the impact of the rate itself and the time invested.

Does the calculator account for taxes, fees, or inflation?

No, not automatically. It models a clean, constant return. To reflect real conditions, lower your return rate to a net or 'real' figure, for example using 6 percent instead of 9 percent to roughly strip out inflation and platform costs.

Is my financial information saved anywhere?

No. The calculation runs entirely in your browser, so the amounts, rates, and goals you enter are not sent to a server, stored, or shared with anyone.

From our blog

From Step Count to Kilometres: How to Convert Your Daily Steps Accurately

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

Most fitness trackers were built around a single famous number: 10,000 steps a day. That target is useful for motivation, but it tells you nothing about distance. If your goal is to walk a certain number of kilometres, to compare a walk against a running route, or simply to understand what your daily total means, you first need to convert steps into distance. The conversion is straightforward arithmetic, but doing it well means understanding the one variable that drives the whole calculation: your step length.

The maths is simple. Distance in kilometres equals your step count multiplied by your step length in metres, divided by 1,000. So 8,000 steps at a 0.75 m step length works out to 8,000 x 0.75 / 1000 = 6 km. The reason published charts disagree is that they assume different step lengths. A widely cited average is about 1,312 steps per kilometre, but that figure quietly assumes an adult of roughly average height walking at a moderate pace. Shorter walkers take more steps per km, taller walkers take fewer.

Two details trip people up. The first is the step-versus-stride distinction: a step is one foot-fall, a stride is two. Because pedometers and phone apps count foot-falls, you must use step length, which is about half the stride length. Mixing them up roughly doubles your distance. The second is pace. Each step gets longer as you speed up, by something like ten percent between a slow stroll and a brisk walk, and even more when you jog, so a fixed step length will under-count the distance of a fast session.

The single biggest accuracy upgrade is to stop guessing your step length and measure it. Mark out a known distance, walk it naturally, count your steps, and divide. Do it a couple of times and average the results. Once you have your personal figure, every future conversion improves, and you can plug it into this calculator instead of relying on a generic default that may be off by five to ten percent for your build.

Used this way, a steps-to-km calculator becomes a planning tool rather than just a curiosity. You can work out that your habitual daily total is, say, 6.3 km, decide you want 7 km, and see how many extra steps that requires. You can sanity-check a new watch against your measured baseline, or estimate the step cost of a planned route before you leave. The conversion runs instantly in your browser, so you can experiment with different step lengths and counts as often as you like without anything leaving your device.

  • Measure your real step length once over a 10 m course, then reuse it every time for results that beat the generic averages.
  • Use step length, not stride length: stride spans two foot-falls and entering it will roughly double your distance.
  • Bump your step length up slightly for jogging or brisk walking, since each step lengthens as your pace rises.
  • To plan a target distance, divide it by your step length in km to estimate the steps needed, for example 5 km at 0.75 m is about 6,667 steps.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

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