Target Heart Rate Calculator

Find your target heart rate training zones for fat burn and cardio using the Karvonen method. Free, instant, no signup.

How to use the Target Heart Rate Calculator

  1. Enter your values. Fill in the fields with your numbers.
  2. Calculate. Press Calculate to run the target heart rate calculator.
  3. Use the result. Copy the result or try a related tool next.

Why use our Target Heart Rate Calculator

Instant results. Enter your figures and the target heart rate calculator returns an answer in seconds.
Free & private. Runs in your browser — no signup, and nothing is sent to a server.
Accurate. Uses standard formulas so you can rely on the numbers.

Free to use — premium coming soon

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About the Target Heart Rate Calculator

The Target Heart Rate Calculator tells you how fast your heart should beat during exercise to train at a chosen intensity rather than guessing. You enter your age (and optionally your resting heart rate), and it returns a beats-per-minute range for each effort level. It first estimates your maximum heart rate, then maps the standard intensity bands onto it: roughly 50 to 70 percent of maximum for moderate activity such as brisk walking, and about 70 to 85 percent for vigorous activity like running. The result is a concrete number you can check against a pulse reading or a fitness watch mid-workout.

Reach for this tool when you want your cardio to actually do something, whether that is building aerobic endurance, doing recovery sessions, or pushing into harder intervals. Beginners use it to avoid overtraining on day one, while regular exercisers use the zones to keep easy days genuinely easy and hard days hard. It is also useful if a doctor or trainer has told you to stay below a certain intensity, since you can read the upper bpm limit and back off when your pulse climbs past it. The numbers turn vague advice like "work at moderate intensity" into something measurable.

Under the hood the calculator can work two ways. The simple percentage method takes your estimated maximum heart rate (commonly 220 minus your age, so about 200 bpm at age 20 or 170 bpm at age 50) and multiplies it by each intensity percentage. The more personalized Karvonen method uses your heart rate reserve, which is maximum heart rate minus resting heart rate: target = ((max minus resting) times intensity) plus resting. Because Karvonen factors in your resting pulse, it nudges the zones to fit your individual fitness, which is why the American College of Sports Medicine favors it for exercise prescription.

Treat the output as a well-supported estimate, not a medical reading. The 220-minus-age formula has a wide margin of error from person to person, so your true maximum may sit above or below it; a tested or watch-measured maximum is more accurate. The numbers are also unreliable if you take beta-blockers or other medications that suppress heart rate, in which case a perceived-exertion scale is safer. This calculator runs entirely in your browser, so your age, resting heart rate, and results are never uploaded or stored anywhere.

Frequently asked questions

How is my target heart rate actually calculated?

It first estimates your maximum heart rate, usually as 220 minus your age, then multiplies that by an intensity percentage. If you enter a resting heart rate, the Karvonen method is used instead: ((max heart rate minus resting heart rate) times intensity) plus resting heart rate, which personalizes the zones to your fitness.

What is a good target heart rate range for general exercise?

The American Heart Association suggests moderate-intensity exercise at about 50 to 70 percent of your maximum heart rate and vigorous-intensity at about 70 to 85 percent. For example, a 40-year-old has a max of roughly 180 bpm, giving a moderate zone of about 90 to 153 bpm.

Is the 'fat burning zone' the best place to exercise?

The fat-burning zone (around 60 to 70 percent of max) burns the highest percentage of calories from fat, but higher-intensity work usually burns more total calories and more total fat per minute. For weight loss your overall calorie balance matters far more than staying in one specific zone.

Why might this calculator be wrong for me?

The 220-minus-age formula is a population average and can be off by 10 to 20 bpm in either direction. It is also inaccurate if you take beta-blockers or similar medications that lower your heart rate; in that case use rating of perceived exertion or ask your doctor for personalized numbers.

How do I check my heart rate against the result?

Press your first two fingers (not your thumb) on the inside of your wrist below the thumb, count the beats for 30 seconds, and multiply by two. A chest strap or fitness watch is more accurate during movement and lets you watch the number in real time.

From our blog

How to Calculate Cash Back and Actually Maximize Your Rewards

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

Cash back rewards sound straightforward, but the headline rate on a card rarely tells the whole story. A card advertised as "up to 5%" might pay that rate on a single category, cap it at a quarterly spending limit, and pay just 1% on everything else. The first step to using rewards well is translating those percentages into dollars, and that is exactly what a cash back calculation does: it strips away the marketing and shows you the actual money returned for a given amount of spending.

The core formula never changes. Take the amount you spent, convert the cash back rate to a decimal by dividing it by 100, and multiply. A 1.5% rate becomes 0.015, a 3% rate becomes 0.03, and a 5% rate becomes 0.05. So $1,000 spent on a 2% card returns $20, while the same $1,000 on a 3% card returns $30. The gap looks small per transaction, but across a year of normal spending it adds up, which is why comparing rates before you commit to a card is worth a few minutes.

Things get more interesting with tiered and rotating-category cards. A common structure gives 5% on a bonus category that changes each quarter, up to $1,500 in purchases, and 1% afterward. Spend the full $1,500 in the bonus category and you earn $75 that quarter, or up to $300 a year if you max it every period. To model this accurately, treat the calculation in two parts: the bonus rate on spending up to the cap, and the base rate on everything beyond it. Lumping it all under the headline rate will overstate your earnings.

Flat-rate cards trade peak earning for simplicity. A card that pays a steady 2% on everything beats a 5% rotating card for anyone who does not track categories or who spends evenly across many types of purchases. The way to settle the question is to run your real numbers: estimate annual spending in each category, calculate the rewards each card would produce, and subtract any annual fee. The card with the higher net figure wins, and a calculator makes that comparison quick instead of guesswork.

Finally, remember that rewards are only profit if you avoid the costs that erase them. Carrying a balance means interest charges that typically dwarf any cash back earned, so the rewards math only holds when you pay in full each month. It is also worth confirming how your card pays out: a statement credit reduces your bill, while a deposit or gift card puts value elsewhere. Knowing the dollar figure ahead of time helps you decide whether chasing a bonus category is genuinely worth changing how you spend.

  • Convert the rate to a decimal before multiplying: 1.5% is 0.015, not 0.15. Misplacing the decimal is the single most common cash back math error.
  • For rotating-category cards, calculate the 5% bonus only up to the quarterly cap (often $1,500 in spending), then apply 1% to the rest.
  • When comparing two cards, calculate rewards on your real annual spending and subtract any annual fee to find which one actually nets you more.
  • After a reward posts, divide it by the amount spent and multiply by 100 to confirm the card paid the rate it promised.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

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