Target Heart Rate Calculator

Find your target heart rate training zones for fat burn and cardio using the Karvonen method. Free, instant, no signup.

How to use the Target Heart Rate Calculator

  1. Enter your values. Fill in the fields with your numbers.
  2. Calculate. Press Calculate to run the target heart rate calculator.
  3. Use the result. Copy the result or try a related tool next.

Why use our Target Heart Rate Calculator

Instant results. Enter your figures and the target heart rate calculator returns an answer in seconds.
Free & private. Runs in your browser — no signup, and nothing is sent to a server.
Accurate. Uses standard formulas so you can rely on the numbers.

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About the Target Heart Rate Calculator

The Target Heart Rate Calculator tells you how fast your heart should beat during exercise to train at a chosen intensity rather than guessing. You enter your age (and optionally your resting heart rate), and it returns a beats-per-minute range for each effort level. It first estimates your maximum heart rate, then maps the standard intensity bands onto it: roughly 50 to 70 percent of maximum for moderate activity such as brisk walking, and about 70 to 85 percent for vigorous activity like running. The result is a concrete number you can check against a pulse reading or a fitness watch mid-workout.

Reach for this tool when you want your cardio to actually do something, whether that is building aerobic endurance, doing recovery sessions, or pushing into harder intervals. Beginners use it to avoid overtraining on day one, while regular exercisers use the zones to keep easy days genuinely easy and hard days hard. It is also useful if a doctor or trainer has told you to stay below a certain intensity, since you can read the upper bpm limit and back off when your pulse climbs past it. The numbers turn vague advice like "work at moderate intensity" into something measurable.

Under the hood the calculator can work two ways. The simple percentage method takes your estimated maximum heart rate (commonly 220 minus your age, so about 200 bpm at age 20 or 170 bpm at age 50) and multiplies it by each intensity percentage. The more personalized Karvonen method uses your heart rate reserve, which is maximum heart rate minus resting heart rate: target = ((max minus resting) times intensity) plus resting. Because Karvonen factors in your resting pulse, it nudges the zones to fit your individual fitness, which is why the American College of Sports Medicine favors it for exercise prescription.

Treat the output as a well-supported estimate, not a medical reading. The 220-minus-age formula has a wide margin of error from person to person, so your true maximum may sit above or below it; a tested or watch-measured maximum is more accurate. The numbers are also unreliable if you take beta-blockers or other medications that suppress heart rate, in which case a perceived-exertion scale is safer. This calculator runs entirely in your browser, so your age, resting heart rate, and results are never uploaded or stored anywhere.

Frequently asked questions

How is my target heart rate actually calculated?

It first estimates your maximum heart rate, usually as 220 minus your age, then multiplies that by an intensity percentage. If you enter a resting heart rate, the Karvonen method is used instead: ((max heart rate minus resting heart rate) times intensity) plus resting heart rate, which personalizes the zones to your fitness.

What is a good target heart rate range for general exercise?

The American Heart Association suggests moderate-intensity exercise at about 50 to 70 percent of your maximum heart rate and vigorous-intensity at about 70 to 85 percent. For example, a 40-year-old has a max of roughly 180 bpm, giving a moderate zone of about 90 to 153 bpm.

Is the 'fat burning zone' the best place to exercise?

The fat-burning zone (around 60 to 70 percent of max) burns the highest percentage of calories from fat, but higher-intensity work usually burns more total calories and more total fat per minute. For weight loss your overall calorie balance matters far more than staying in one specific zone.

Why might this calculator be wrong for me?

The 220-minus-age formula is a population average and can be off by 10 to 20 bpm in either direction. It is also inaccurate if you take beta-blockers or similar medications that lower your heart rate; in that case use rating of perceived exertion or ask your doctor for personalized numbers.

How do I check my heart rate against the result?

Press your first two fingers (not your thumb) on the inside of your wrist below the thumb, count the beats for 30 seconds, and multiply by two. A chest strap or fitness watch is more accurate during movement and lets you watch the number in real time.

From our blog

How to Convert Years Into Generations (and Why 25 Years Is Usually Wrong)

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

Family history is full of gaps where you have a date but not the names in between. A relative was born in 1812, you were born in 1985, and somewhere in that 173-year stretch sits a chain of parents and children you have not yet traced. Converting that gap into a generation estimate turns a vague span of time into a concrete target, telling you roughly how many parent-child links to hunt for in the records.

The arithmetic is simple: take the gap in years and divide by how long one generation lasts. The catch is that second number. For decades genealogists defaulted to 25 years per generation, but analyses of large pedigrees and genetic data have pushed that figure upward. A widely cited finding gives about 33 years for paternal lines and 29 for maternal lines, with roughly 30 years as a sensible all-purpose average. Swapping 25 for 30 can change a long lineage estimate by a full generation or more.

Run the numbers both ways to sanity-check yourself. That 173-year gap divided by 25 suggests about seven generations; divided by 30 it suggests closer to six. Neither is gospel, so think in ranges rather than exact counts. The point is not a precise answer but a search window: you now know to look for roughly six or seven parent-child steps and can begin matching candidates in census, birth, and parish records.

There is a second kind of generation math worth knowing. Going backward, your direct ancestors double each step: two parents, four grandparents, eight great-grandparents, and so on as 2 to the power of n. Ten generations back implies over a thousand people in that single layer and 2,046 across all ten combined. In reality the count is smaller because the same ancestors appear on multiple branches, a phenomenon called pedigree collapse, but the doubling pattern still shows how quickly a tree widens.

Use the estimate as a compass, not a destination. Once it points you to a likely number of generations and a rough era, switch to evidence: locate each individual, confirm the parent-child link with a document, and adjust your generation length if your family consistently had children young or late. The calculator gets you to the right neighborhood quickly, but only records can put a name on each doorstep.

  • Start with 30 years per generation for a balanced estimate, then try 33 for father-to-son lines and 29 for mother-to-daughter lines to bracket the likely answer.
  • If you already know a few birth years in the line, average the real gaps between them and use that custom figure instead of a generic number.
  • Always express the result as a range, such as five to six generations, so you do not lock onto a single count that the records may contradict.
  • For backward ancestor counts, remember the 2 to the power of n doubling but expect fewer unique people in older generations because the same ancestors repeat across branches.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

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