Hourly to Salary Calculator

Convert an hourly wage to an annual salary, monthly pay, and weekly pay based on your hours and weeks worked. Free, instant, no signup.

Formula: Annual salary = hourly rate × hours per week × weeks per year

How to use the Hourly to Salary Calculator

  1. Enter your values. Fill in the fields with your numbers.
  2. Calculate. Press Calculate to run the hourly to salary calculator.
  3. Use the result. Copy the result or try a related tool next.

Why use our Hourly to Salary Calculator

Instant results. Enter your figures and the hourly to salary calculator returns an answer in seconds.
Free & private. Runs in your browser — no signup, and nothing is sent to a server.
Accurate. Uses standard formulas so you can rely on the numbers.

Free to use — premium coming soon

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About the Hourly to Salary Calculator

The Hourly to Salary Calculator turns an hourly pay rate into the annual, monthly, weekly, and daily equivalents so you can see what a wage really adds up to over a year. Enter your hourly rate, how many hours you work per week, and how many weeks you work per year, and it returns your gross income figures instantly. It exists because job offers, gig contracts, and pay reviews are quoted in wildly different units, and comparing a $24/hour role against a $48,000 salaried role is impossible to eyeball. This tool puts both numbers in the same currency of time so the comparison is fair.

The math is deliberately transparent: Annual Salary = Hourly Rate × Hours per Week × Weeks per Year. With the standard full-time assumption of 40 hours a week across all 52 weeks, that works out to 2,080 paid hours a year, so a $24/hour rate becomes $24 × 2,080 = $49,920. Change any input and every result updates. If you take two weeks of unpaid leave, set weeks to 50 and the annual figure drops accordingly. Because the weeks and hours fields are editable, part-time schedules (say 20 hours × 52 = 1,040 hours) and seasonal contracts convert just as accurately as a standard nine-to-five.

Use it when you are weighing a salaried offer against your current hourly job, pricing freelance or contract work, budgeting after a raise, or checking whether a part-time rate covers your monthly bills. Employers and recruiters use the same conversion in reverse to benchmark an hourly role against salaried market rates. The calculator also breaks the annual number down into monthly (annual ÷ 12) and weekly amounts, which is usually the more useful figure for planning rent, loan payments, and recurring expenses against an actual pay cycle.

Every figure this calculator produces is gross pay, meaning before income tax, Social Security, Medicare, retirement contributions, and benefit deductions are taken out, so your take-home pay will be lower than the annual total shown. It also assumes a flat rate with no overtime premium; hours beyond 40 in a week are often paid at time-and-a-half under U.S. labor rules, which this base conversion does not add automatically. The calculation runs entirely in your browser, so the pay rate and hours you enter are never sent to a server, uploaded, or stored anywhere.

Frequently asked questions

How do I convert my hourly wage to an annual salary?

Multiply your hourly rate by the hours you work each week and then by the number of weeks you work per year. For standard full-time work that is hourly rate × 40 × 52, or simply your hourly rate × 2,080.

Why does the calculator use 2,080 hours?

2,080 is the number of hours in a full-time year based on 40 hours a week for all 52 weeks (40 × 52). It is the standard baseline for full-time pay, but you can lower the weeks or hours fields if you work part-time or take unpaid leave.

Is the result before or after tax?

It is gross pay, calculated before any deductions. Your actual take-home pay will be lower once federal and state income tax, Social Security, Medicare, and any benefit or retirement contributions are withheld.

Does this account for overtime or paid time off?

No. The conversion applies one flat rate to every hour entered and does not add an overtime premium. If you regularly work paid overtime at time-and-a-half, your real annual income will be higher than the base figure shown.

How do I adjust the calculation for unpaid vacation?

Reduce the weeks-per-year value to match the weeks you are actually paid. For example, two weeks of unpaid leave means setting weeks to 50 instead of 52, which lowers the annual total proportionally.

From our blog

How to Count Cash Fast and Accurately with the Money Counter

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

Counting cash by hand is slow and surprisingly error-prone, especially once coins enter the mix. The reliable method professionals use is to separate the work into two stages: physically organize the money first, then let a calculator do the arithmetic. The Money Counter is built for that second stage. Once your cash is sorted into clean stacks by denomination, the tool turns a row of quantities into an exact total, removing the mental addition that causes most mistakes during a busy shift or a quick deposit.

Start by sorting. Make one pile for each denomination you have, so all the twenties are together, all the quarters are together, and so on. Counting within a single denomination is far easier than counting a jumbled handful, because every item in the pile is worth the same amount. For bills, fan them face-up in the same direction; for coins, group them in tens so a glance tells you the count. This preparation is what makes the final number trustworthy, since the calculator can only be as right as the quantities you give it.

Next, enter the quantities. Type the number of bills or coins for each denomination into its matching field and leave the rest at zero. The tool multiplies each quantity by its face value behind the scenes, then adds the products together for a single total. Because the values are fixed, there is nothing to round and nothing to estimate. If you are working in a currency other than US dollars, switch to that currency so the denomination list matches the notes and coins you are actually holding.

If you are balancing a register, the total is only half the job. Compare it against what you expected: take your opening float, add the cash you took in, and subtract any cash paid out, then check that against the counted figure. A difference means either a miscount or a transaction error. Many businesses tolerate a small variance of a dollar or two, but anything larger is worth recounting before you write it off, because a single misread stack of bills can throw the whole drawer off.

Finally, treat the count as repeatable rather than a one-off. The same routine works for a piggy bank, a tip jar, a fundraiser collection, or a coin sorting session with kids, and it scales from a few dollars to a full till. Recounting the highest-value stacks once more before you commit the number is a habit worth keeping, since errors on hundreds and twenties move the total the most. With sorting done well, the Money Counter gives you a precise figure every time.

  • Sort into one stack per denomination before entering anything; counting within a single value is far less error-prone than counting a mixed handful.
  • Group coins in tens (ten dimes, ten quarters) so you can verify each stack at a glance and reduce miscounts.
  • When balancing a drawer, compare the total to opening float plus cash in minus cash out, and recount before treating any gap as a real shortage.
  • Always recount the high-value stacks like fifties and hundreds twice, since a single error there shifts the total the most.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

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