Miles per kWh Calculator

Calculate an electric vehicle's miles per kWh efficiency and kWh consumption per 100 miles. Free, instant, no signup.

Formula: mi/kWh = miles ÷ kWh used | kWh/100mi = kWh ÷ miles × 100

How to use the Miles per kWh Calculator

  1. Enter your values. Fill in the fields with your numbers.
  2. Calculate. Press Calculate to run the miles per kwh calculator.
  3. Use the result. Copy the result or try a related tool next.

Why use our Miles per kWh Calculator

Instant results. Enter your figures and the miles per kwh calculator returns an answer in seconds.
Free & private. Runs in your browser — no signup, and nothing is sent to a server.
Accurate. Uses standard formulas so you can rely on the numbers.

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About the Miles per kWh Calculator

The Miles per kWh Calculator tells you how far your electric vehicle travels on a single kilowatt-hour of electricity, the EV equivalent of miles per gallon. Enter the distance you drove and the energy your car pulled from the battery, and the tool divides one by the other to give a clean efficiency figure. It is the number that matters most when you want to compare cars, predict how far a charge will take you, or work out what a journey actually costs at your home electricity rate. Higher is better: a value of 4 mi/kWh means each unit of stored energy is moving you four miles down the road.

Reach for this calculator when you have logged a real trip and want to see how your driving compares to the manufacturer's claimed figure, which is almost always measured under ideal conditions. It is genuinely useful before a long drive, because multiplying your real-world mi/kWh by the battery's usable capacity gives a far more honest range estimate than the dashboard number. It also turns vague worries about running costs into concrete pounds or dollars: take your monthly mileage, divide by your mi/kWh, and multiply by your per-kWh tariff to see exactly what charging adds to your bill.

The maths behind the tool is deliberately simple: miles per kWh equals miles driven divided by energy consumed in kilowatt-hours. If you covered 120 miles and used 35 kWh, that is 120 / 35 = roughly 3.4 mi/kWh. Most EVs land somewhere between 2.5 and 5 mi/kWh, with compact cars often topping 4 and large SUVs or trucks closer to 2.7 to 3.3. The same figure converts neatly to other units drivers see: divide 100 by your mi/kWh for kWh per 100 miles, or multiply by 33.7 to approximate MPGe.

Accuracy depends entirely on getting honest energy data. The cleanest source is energy drawn from the battery as shown by your car's trip computer; if you instead use kWh added at a charger, your figure will look slightly worse because of charging losses that never reach the wheels. Weather, speed, terrain and climate control all swing the result, so a single trip is a snapshot, not a verdict, average several drives for a reliable number. This calculator runs entirely in your browser: the distances and energy figures you type are never uploaded, stored, or shared with anyone.

Frequently asked questions

What is the formula for miles per kWh?

Miles per kWh = miles driven divided by energy consumed in kilowatt-hours. For example, 120 miles using 35 kWh gives 120 / 35 = about 3.4 mi/kWh. The higher the number, the more efficient the vehicle.

What is a good miles per kWh figure for an electric car?

Most EVs sit between roughly 2.5 and 5 mi/kWh. A figure of 3.5 to 4.5 mi/kWh is considered good; compact cars can exceed 4 to 5, while large SUVs and trucks are usually nearer 2.7 to 3.3. Cold weather and motorway speeds push the number lower.

Should I use energy from the charger or from the battery?

Use the energy drawn from the battery (your car's trip data) for true driving efficiency. Charger readings include charging losses that never move the car, so they make your mi/kWh look slightly worse, useful for cost, less so for comparing efficiency.

How do I estimate my range from miles per kWh?

Multiply your real-world mi/kWh by the battery's usable capacity in kWh. For instance, 3.3 mi/kWh on a 77 kWh battery gives roughly 254 miles. Using your own driving figure is more reliable than the manufacturer's quoted range.

How does miles per kWh relate to MPGe and kWh per 100 miles?

To get kWh per 100 miles, divide 100 by your mi/kWh (so 4 mi/kWh = 25 kWh/100mi). To approximate MPGe, multiply your mi/kWh by 33.7, the kWh of energy in a gallon of gasoline, so 4 mi/kWh is about 135 MPGe.

From our blog

How to Set a Savings Goal You'll Actually Hit

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

Most savings advice tells you to save more, but rarely tells you exactly how much. A savings goal calculator closes that gap by converting a target and a deadline into a single monthly figure. The hardest part is being honest about the inputs: a real goal amount, a realistic date, your true current balance, and an interest rate you can actually earn rather than a hopeful one. Get those right and the output becomes a number you can build a budget around instead of an aspiration that drifts.

Start with the goal and the deadline, because together they set the pace. The same $30,000 target needs roughly $1,250 a month over two years but only about $500 a month over five, before any interest. This is why the timeline is the most powerful lever you control: stretching the deadline by even a year can drop the monthly commitment to something sustainable, while a tight deadline forces a higher, less forgiving contribution that is easy to abandon after a rough month.

Your starting balance matters more than people expect. Because any money already saved keeps earning interest for the whole period, the calculator grows it forward and subtracts it from the goal before working out your payments. A modest head start therefore does double duty: it shrinks the gap directly and it compounds. If you have a windfall, a tax refund, or a bonus, applying it as the initial deposit usually lowers your monthly number by more than the lump sum itself, thanks to that extra time in the market.

Interest is the quiet helper, but only if the money is in the right place. In a near-zero current account, the calculator essentially just divides your goal by the months remaining. Move the same plan to a high-yield savings account or a CD and a meaningful share of the goal can be funded by interest rather than your paycheck. Try entering a couple of realistic rates to see the difference; for longer goals especially, the choice of account can change the required monthly deposit noticeably.

Finally, treat the plan as a living document. Recalculate whenever your income changes, when you add a windfall, or when the goal cost shifts. If the monthly figure ever feels unaffordable, do not quietly give up on the goal, adjust the inputs instead: push the date, trim the target, or split one big goal into stages. The point of the calculator is not a perfect prediction but a clear, adjustable target that keeps you saving consistently.

  • Run the numbers at 0% interest first to see the worst-case monthly amount, then add a realistic rate to see how much an account upgrade saves you.
  • Enter any bonus or refund as your starting balance before calculating; it lowers the monthly figure by more than its face value over time.
  • If the monthly number tops 20% of your take-home pay, lengthen the deadline rather than abandoning the goal so it stays within a healthy savings rate.
  • For goals more than a couple of years out, pad the target by a few percent to absorb inflation, since the calculator works in today's dollars.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

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