Fuel Consumption Converter

Convert between fuel consumption units instantly — pick any from and to unit.

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About the Fuel Consumption Converter

The Fuel Consumption Converter turns one fuel-economy figure into every other unit that drivers, importers, and travellers actually use: US miles per gallon, UK (Imperial) miles per gallon, litres per 100 kilometres, and kilometres per litre. Because the world has never agreed on a single way to express how thirsty a car is, a 7 L/100km label from a German brochure, a 35 MPG sticker from an American window, and a 14 km/L rating from a Japanese spec sheet can all describe roughly the same engine. This tool puts them on a level playing field so you can compare vehicles honestly instead of guessing.

Use it whenever the number you have is in the wrong unit for the decision you are making. Common moments: importing or buying a used car whose paperwork quotes a foreign standard, planning a road trip across borders to estimate fuel for the tank, fleet managers normalising mixed-source efficiency data, or simply double-checking a salesperson's claim. It also clears up the single most expensive mistake in this space: confusing US and Imperial gallons. An Imperial gallon is about 20% larger, so the same car looks more efficient in UK MPG than in US MPG even though nothing changed about the engine.

The maths hinges on whether a unit measures distance-per-fuel or fuel-per-distance. MPG and km/L go up as efficiency improves; L/100km goes down. That makes them inversely related, so you cannot scale between them with one flat multiplier. To get L/100km from US MPG, divide 235.215 by the MPG value; for UK MPG, divide 282.481 instead. To get L/100km from km/L, divide 100 by km/L. The constant 235.215 comes from multiplying litres per gallon (3.785412) by miles per 100 km (62.137). The converter applies the exact factors so 30 US MPG resolves to about 7.84 L/100km.

Everything is calculated in your browser as you type, so the figures you enter never leave your device and nothing is stored or sent to a server. The results are mathematically exact for the units you choose, but remember the conversion is only as accurate as the input: a manufacturer's combined-cycle rating, a real-world economy reading from your trip computer, and a hand-measured tank-to-tank figure can differ by 10% or more. Always confirm whether a quoted MPG is US or Imperial before you convert, because mixing the two is the most frequent reason conversions come out wrong.

Frequently asked questions

How do I convert MPG to L/100km?

Divide 235.215 by the value if it is US MPG, or divide 282.481 by it if it is UK (Imperial) MPG. For example, 30 US MPG equals 235.215 / 30 = about 7.84 L/100km.

Why can't I just multiply MPG by a single number to get L/100km?

Because the two units measure efficiency in opposite directions: MPG is distance per fuel and rises with efficiency, while L/100km is fuel per distance and falls with efficiency. They are inversely related, so you divide a constant by the value rather than multiplying.

What is the difference between US MPG and Imperial (UK) MPG?

A US gallon is 3.785 litres while an Imperial gallon is 4.546 litres, about 20% larger. The same car therefore shows a higher number in UK MPG than in US MPG, so always check which gallon a figure uses before converting.

How do I convert km/L to L/100km?

Divide 100 by the km/L value. For instance, 20 km/L equals 100 / 20 = 5 L/100km. This works because km/L is distance per litre and L/100km is litres per fixed distance.

Which unit means a car is more fuel efficient: a higher number or a lower one?

For MPG and km/L, a higher number is more efficient. For L/100km, a lower number is more efficient, since it means the car burns less fuel to cover the same 100 kilometres.

From our blog

Cubic Yards to Tons: How to Order the Right Amount of Gravel, Sand, or Soil

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

If you have ever priced out a driveway or a garden project, you have probably hit a frustrating mismatch: you measured the job in cubic yards, but the supplier quotes the material in tons. The two units answer different questions. Cubic yards describe how much space a pile of gravel or soil will occupy once it is spread, while tons describe how heavy that pile is when it rolls across the weigh scale at the yard. Converting between them is the bridge that lets you turn a tape-measure number into a number you can actually order.

The reason a single conversion factor does not exist is density. A cubic yard is always 27 cubic feet of space, but what fills that space changes everything. Pack it with dry mulch and it is light; pack it with wet crushed stone and it can weigh more than twice as much. That is why this conversion always needs two inputs: your volume in cubic yards and the material's unit weight. Once you have both, the rest is arithmetic that any calculator handles in a fraction of a second.

To do it by hand, multiply your cubic yards by the density in tons per cubic yard. For typical materials in many regions, sand runs near 1.3 tons per yard, gravel about 1.4, and stone around 1.5. So 10 cubic yards of gravel is roughly 14 tons. If you only know density in pounds per cubic foot, use the longer formula: cubic yards times 27 times that density, divided by 2,000. Both routes give the same answer; the short version just hides the 27-and-2,000 step inside the per-yard figure.

Moisture and compaction are the silent variables that throw estimates off. The same sand can weigh noticeably more after rain, and a compacted base will read heavier than a freshly dumped, fluffy load. Particle size and stone type matter too, which is why a reputable supplier can give you the exact unit weight for the specific product they stock. Treat published averages as a starting point and adjust toward the supplier's figure for anything more than a small order.

A smart ordering routine looks like this: measure your area, calculate the volume in cubic yards, convert to tons, then add a small buffer for settling and waste. Confirm the tonnage against the supplier's own density before you commit, because bulk aggregate is heavy, awkward to return, and often non-refundable. Get the conversion right up front and you avoid the two classic mistakes: a half-finished project from ordering too little, or a leftover mountain of stone you paid to haul away.

  • Always ask your supplier for the exact unit weight (tons per cubic yard) of the specific product you are buying rather than relying on generic averages.
  • Account for moisture: order wet or recently rained-on material expecting a higher weight, since water adds real tonnage without adding usable volume.
  • Add roughly 5 to 10 percent extra to your converted tonnage to cover settling, compaction, and spillage so you are not left short.
  • Double-check whether a quote is in US short tons (2,000 lb) or metric tonnes (1,000 kg) before comparing prices, since the units differ by about 10 percent.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

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