Tile Calculator

Calculate how many tiles you need for a floor or wall, including waste. Free, instant, no signup.

ft
ft
in
in
%
Formula: Tiles = area ÷ tile size × (1 + waste%)

How to use the Tile Calculator

  1. Enter your values. Fill in the fields with your numbers.
  2. Calculate. Press Calculate to run the tile calculator.
  3. Use the result. Copy the result or try a related tool next.

Why use our Tile Calculator

Instant results. Enter your figures and the tile calculator returns an answer in seconds.
Free & private. Runs in your browser — no signup, and nothing is sent to a server.
Accurate. Uses standard formulas so you can rely on the numbers.

Free to use — premium coming soon

FREE
  • Unlimited calculations
  • Instant results
  • No signup
PREMIUM
  • Remove ads
  • Save & compare scenarios
  • Export results

About the Tile Calculator

The Tile Calculator tells you how many tiles to buy for a floor or wall by dividing the area you want to cover by the area each tile covers, then adding a waste allowance for cuts and breakage. Enter your room dimensions and your tile size, and it returns both the bare number of tiles and a realistic purchase quantity. It is built for the moment you are standing in a tile shop or filling an online cart and need a number you can trust, rather than guessing and ending up one box short halfway through a job.

Use it whenever you are tiling a bathroom floor, a kitchen backsplash, a shower surround, or a full living-room floor. The core math is simple: a 12-by-12-inch tile covers exactly one square foot, so a 12-by-15-foot room (180 square feet) needs 180 such tiles before waste. Larger formats like 12-by-24 or 24-by-24 cover more ground per piece but can waste more at the edges if they do not divide neatly into your room. The calculator handles any tile size, so you can compare formats before committing to a purchase.

Waste allowance is the part most people underestimate. Edge cuts, the occasional cracked tile, and pattern matching all consume extra material, and you want a few spares for future repairs since exact tile batches can be discontinued. A straight grid layout typically needs 5 to 10 percent extra; a brick or offset pattern 10 to 15 percent; a diagonal layout 15 to 20 percent; and a herringbone pattern 15 to 20 percent or more because its angled offcuts rarely fit anywhere else. Natural stone and first-time installers should lean toward the higher end.

This calculator runs entirely in your browser. Nothing you type, no room sizes, tile dimensions, or pattern choices, is uploaded, saved, or shared. Treat the result as a close estimate rather than a contract: it does not subtract doors, niches, or fixtures unless you measure those out yourself, and grout-line width is a design detail that does not change the tile count. For a tricky room, break it into rectangles, total them up, and confirm the final order with your supplier before you pay.

Frequently asked questions

How many extra tiles should I order for waste?

Add 5 to 10 percent for a straight grid, 10 to 15 percent for offset or brick patterns, and 15 to 20 percent or more for diagonal and herringbone layouts. Round the result up to whole boxes and keep the spares for future repairs.

How do I calculate the area of a room for tiling?

Multiply length by width in the same units. A 12 by 15 foot room is 180 square feet. If you measured in inches, multiply length by width and divide by 144 to get square feet. For odd-shaped rooms, split them into rectangles and add the areas together.

Does the calculator account for grout lines?

No, and it should not. Grout joints are typically 1/16 to 1/8 inch and are not subtracted from the tile count, only considered in layout planning. The waste allowance already covers cuts and breakage, which matters far more than grout spacing.

Do I get more or fewer tiles with a larger format?

Larger tiles cover more area per piece, so you need fewer of them, but they can create more waste if they do not divide evenly into the room. A 12 by 24 tile often wastes less than a 24 by 24 in narrow spaces. Compare both before buying.

Should I subtract doorways, cabinets, or a bathtub?

If a fixture sits on top of finished tile, leave it in the area. If you genuinely will not tile under it, measure that footprint and subtract it from your total area before calculating. When unsure, leave it in, since extra tile is cheaper than a second order.

From our blog

How to Evaluate a Pay Raise: From Percentage to Real Take-Home

By the Super Simple Digital Tools Team · Updated June 2026

When a raise lands in your inbox it usually arrives as a single number, either a percentage or a new salary figure, and that lone number hides a lot. The first move is to translate it into the same units you actually spend money in. A 3% bump on $65,000 sounds modest, but it's $1,950 a year, about $162 a month, and roughly $0.94 more an hour. Seeing all four views at once is the difference between a vague 'okay' and a real decision, and it's exactly what a pay raise calculator is built to surface in a single step.

The second step is benchmarking. A raise only means something relative to two things: inflation and the market. With cost-of-living adjustments running around 2 to 3 percent and the 2026 Social Security COLA set at 2.8%, a raise below that range is effectively a pay cut in buying power. Average employer salary budgets for 2026 sit near 3.5%, so anything meaningfully under that may signal you're being undervalued. Use the calculator to express your raise as a clean percentage, then hold it up against these reference points before you celebrate or negotiate.

Third, separate gross from net. The headline number on your offer letter is pre-tax, and a raise can quietly push part of your income into a higher marginal bracket. Only the dollars above the threshold are taxed at the higher rate, so a raise never reduces your overall take-home, but it does mean you keep less of each new dollar than of your base pay. Federal income tax plus Social Security and Medicare alone trim 7.65% off the top before income tax even applies, so plan around the net figure, not the gross.

Fourth, think in compounding terms for anything long-running. Raises stack on top of each other, so the base you start from matters more than any single year's percentage. Two years of 4% beats one year of 5% followed by a flat year, because the second 4% is calculated on an already-higher number. If you're weighing a job change, calculate the new annual figure and project a couple of years forward; a higher starting salary often outruns a slightly bigger one-time percentage at your current employer.

Finally, use the numbers to negotiate concretely. Walking into a review saying 'I'd like more' is weak; saying 'a 6% increase would bring me to $68,900, which aligns with market data for this role' is specific and hard to dismiss. Run the figures first so you can name an exact target salary, an exact percentage, and what it means per paycheck. The calculator removes the mental math, leaving you free to focus on the case you're making rather than the arithmetic behind it.

  • Enter both your current and proposed salary to get the exact raise percentage, then compare it directly against the 2.8% COLA and the ~3.5% average employer budget for 2026.
  • Always read the per-paycheck number, not just the annual one. A $1,800 raise feels large until you see it's about $69 per biweekly check before tax.
  • Estimate your net by keeping roughly 65 to 80 percent of the gross raise, since FICA alone takes 7.65% before income tax is applied.
  • When comparing a salaried offer to an hourly one, divide annual pay by 2,080 to get a true apples-to-apples hourly rate before deciding.

Read the full guide →

Tool by the Super Simple Digital Tools Team. Reviewed by our editorial team. Free to use, no signup required.

Related tools